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Wednesday, August 3, 2005, The Halifax Herald Limited
By SEAN WOOD / Wood On Wine
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Exciting new South Africans now in town
Distinctive new styles still authentically South African
THIS WEEK signals the start of a new promotional campaign in Nova Scotia for the wines of South Africa.
It kicks off with a tasting Thursday evening at Seven Restaurant. This event is an opportunity to taste some 25-30 South African wines, many of them new to Nova Scotia.
Tickets are $15 in advance or $20 at the door. If interested in attending call 902-444-4777 or e-mail at info@sevenwinebar.com. The tasting starts at 7:30 p.m. and runs about two hours.
South Africa is the oldest of the "new world" winemaking countries. The history of winemaking at the Cape goes back some 350 years. During the apartheid years, an international boycott of South African products devastated the industry. Today, though, the country has put all this behind and is clearly a rising star in the wine world. New investment, better understanding of terroir, the development of new regions and a crop of inspired winemakers have brought about an amazing transformation.
Distinctive new styles have been developed - authentically South African - but clearly influenced by modern fruit-driven wines like Aussie Shiraz. South Africa seems especially well-suited to this variety and Shiraz is swiftly gaining ground, both in the Aussie style and the more Rhone-like equivalent, Syrah. Among whites, plantings of Sauvignon Blanc have also expanded and very good, classically-styled wines are being produced from this grape.
Cabernet Sauvignon made in the uncompromising Bordeaux fashion has long been the hallmark for top winemaking in the traditional regions such as Paarl and Stellenbosch and continues to thrive.
Chenin Blanc, known locally as Steen, is losing ground to some of the other international varieties. Traditional Cape reds, especially Cabernet Sauvignon and South Africa's own red grape, Pinotage, have in the past shown a very distinctive dry inky character imparted by the terroir. This is not to everyone's taste and it is almost imperceptible in the newer styles.
The South African wine revolution continues to be a work in progress, with a great deal of experimenting still underway. The wines that have already emerged, though, are among the most exciting to be found anywhere.
This Week's Reviews
New World Sauvignon Blanc, 2004, Western Cape, 12 per cent, $11.99 plus tax, NSLC general list No. 2603. Light citrus and grassy herbal notes leave a mellow impression on the nose - not overripe but not super crisp either. Grapefruit and a hint of lychee come through on the palate with tart clean acidity, some mineral and an intriguing trace of peppery spice on the finish.
Fish Hoek Sauvignon Blanc, 2005, Western Cape, 12.5 per cent, $11.49 plus tax, NSLC general list. From star winemaker Bruce Jack's Flagstone Vineyards, this is a classic grassy, herbal Sauvignon with gooseberry and mineral notes on the nose. Vibrant flavours of grapefruit and gooseberry are matched with racy mineral and crisp white peach on the palate. An excellent summer sipper. Pair with shellfish and other light seafoods. *
Porcupine Ridge Sauvignon Blanc, 2004, Boekenhoutskloof Wine of Western Cape, 12 per cent, $13.99 plus tax. Port of Wines No. 704528. Another classic Sauvignon in the cool-climate mode, showing typical steely mineral, citrus and green gooseberry on the nose and plenty of the same in the mouth. The wine is finely balanced, harmonious and finishes with crisp freshness and a touch of mineral. *
Nederburg Sauvignon Blanc, 2004, Western Cape, 12.5 per cent, $12.49 plus tax, NSLC general list No. 111542. Elegant ripe lemon citrus, herbal notes and a touch of tropical fruit on the nose translate into clean ripe citrus on the palate with just a suggestion of tropical fruit. Very well-balanced, it finishes with fresh green fruit crispness. A flexible partner for many fish and white meat dishes. *
Fish Hoek Merlot, 2004, Western Cape, 13 per cent, $11.49 plus tax, NSLC general list. Bouquet is deep, with earthy character, dark berry fruit and subtle sweet spice. Concentrated sweet dark berry flavours are nicely balanced with acidity and medium ripe tannins. Finish has good length with well-integrated fruit, cinnamon spice and some smooth light chocolate. Has charm and is easy to drink. *
New World Syrah, 2003, Western Cape, 14 per cent, $11.99 plus tax, NSLC general list No. 72512. Ripe spicy red berry, cinnamon, clove and some toffee on the nose lead into concentrated, thickly textured berry and white pepper flavours, balanced but prominent acidity and ripe tannins in the mouth. Finish is long with well-integrated fruit, sweet spice and a dash of oak. A big wine to pair with grilled and spicy red meat dishes. **
The Wolftrap, 2004, Red Wine of Western Cape Boekenhoutskloof, 14.5 per cent, $11.99 plus tax, NSLC general list No. 139030. Everything but the kitchen sink went into this hearty red. The blend is Merlot, Grenache, Malbec, Syrah, Ruby Cabernet, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cinsault. The result, though, is terrific! Bouquet is enticing, showing deep berry, subtle sweet spice, soft oak and a hint of sootiness from the local terroir. Flavours are luscious and mouth-filling with rich berry and some plum fruit, firm tannins, good acidity, finishing with appetizingly dry spicy blackberry raspberry, white pepper and smooth milk chocolate.***
Porcupine Ridge Syrah, 2002, Wine of Western Cape, 14.5 per cent, $18.29 plus tax, Port of Wines No. 592873. Bouquet is gamey and earthy, with developed dark red fruit, some sweet spice and vanillin. The Rhone-like Syrah character really comes out on the palate, with dark berry, dark chocolate and raisiny dried fruit richness culminating with lusciously integrated oak and white pepper spice on the finish. Perfect with game and robust spicy full-flavoured dishes.**
Sean Wood conducts wine tastings and other wine-related events. Write c/o The Chronicle Herald, P.O. Box 610, Halifax, N.S. B3J 2T2; phone 902-465-2464
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SCOTT DUNLOP / staff
A tasting Thursday evening at Seven Restaurant in Halifax will feature some 25-30 South African wines including, from left: Porcupine Ridge Sauvignon Blanc, Fish Hoek Sauvignon Blanc, Porcupine Ridge Syrah, The Wolftrap, Fish Hoek Merlot and New World Syrah.
WINE GUIDE
* Good value in its price range
** Particularly good value in its price range
*** Exceptional value in its price range
Note: All wines that appear in print are recommended. Stars are awarded only to wines that represent especially good value.
Copyright © 2005 The Halifax Herald Limited
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