Jancis Robinson
August 2005

Another fine South African red from carefully scouted vineyards is Flagstone 's Mary Le Bow 2004 Western Cape which is quite different, being based on Cabernet with some 25 per cent Syrah and 13 per cent Merlot. It is still youthful but has lots of sophisticated promise and has none of the aggressive acidity or harsh tannins of old-fashioned Cape reds. This is energetic and harmonious and has a comfortable 13.5 per cent alcohol. According to winemaker Bruce Jack, "The Mary le Bow vineyards are situated in a staggeringly beautiful south-facing kloof high above Ashton, in the Robertson Area. Even if the soils were rubbish (which they are not) I would want to make wine from these grapes because they are in such a positive spot - full of good energy - some of it just has to find its way into the bottle.

"We pick the Merlot first, then the Shiraz and then the Cabernet from contiguous vineyards. The difference is that they all get de-stemmed into the same open-top fermenter (100 per cent manual punch down), and cold soak until the Cab arrives. In this way the grapes from specific, pre-determined rows are blended at the grape stage and we think this adds to the harmony of tannin. Big difference to the normal Flagstone style is that we are using really posh French barrels here."

Because the blend contains some Merlot from another region, Tulbagh, it has to have the catch-all appellation Western Cape (the South African equivalent of South Eastern Australia). It seems to me a very grown-up wine indeed - as it should be for GBP 18 a bottle when the Wine Society will be selling it in the UK, and is currently about GBP 20 from Villeneuve Wines in Peebles, Scotland.

JANCIS ROBINSON


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