South African wines spark excitement
WHOEVER SAID that "getting there is half the fun" clearly had not made the journey to South Africa recently. It is a long way but when you get there the discomfort of the trip is quickly forgotten.
Photos do not do it justice. This is one of the most breathtaking wine countries on earth, with beautifully laid out vineyards framed by dramatic mountain ranges and, in some settings, the sweep of the South Atlantic is visible in the distance.
I was one of a small army of international wine journalists and buyers from around the world who had been invited to attend the Cape Wines show that takes place every second year.
We were split into smaller groups (a different mix of nationalities every day) and toured a wide range of wineries and regions. I had the opportunity to travel with fellow writers from many northern European countries, the U.S. and Southeast Asia, including mainland China.
It was fascinating to talk to the Chinese, who were remarkably knowledgeable about wine, including Canadian icewine. They told us that wine enthusiasm is still in its infancy in China, but that interest is growing rapidly. Vineyards are now being planted and it is only a matter of time before really good wines will be produced.
We were all equally impressed, though, by the new South Africa. The winds of change have brought a new generation of young winemakers to the fore and large capital investment and a new understanding of "terroir" are revolutionizing the oldest wine culture in the New World.
As elsewhere, the South Africans are achieving stunning results from vines planted in new cool-climate regions. The emerging star in these locations is Sauvignon Blanc. The new South African Sauvignons are the most exciting to come along since New Zealand made its big splash with this grape.
Even new Sauvignon plantings in more established regions are showing astonishingly vibrant intensity and steely mineral crispness. Durbanville, close to Cape Town, has some great examples.
I found the most striking Sauvignons, figuratively and literally, at the end of the earth.
At the southernmost tip of Africa, near Cape Agulhas, an entirely new region is just getting started. Known as Elim, this remote region is a 2 1/2-hour drive southeast of Cape Town, the last half hour over bone-shattering dirt road. Here an intrepid handful of growers and winemakers are growing not only spectacular Sauvignons, but some impressive Semillon, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz.
The boundlessly energetic Bruce Jack of Flagstone Winery, one of the visionary young leaders of the South African wine industry, is among their number and serves as an ambassador for the region.
At Elim, the wind is always blowing, either southeasterly, off the Indian Ocean, or westerly, from the south Atlantic. The temperature never exceeds 28 C. This part of Africa was once attached to Antarctica and the soils, as well as the climate, impart subtle mineral complexity to the wines.
Our wonderfully hospitable hosts served their splendid wines accompanied by a magnificent array of freshly caught seafoods and charcoal-grilled meats, all from the local region. The oysters, which people here have to dive for, are matched perfectly to the steely crisp Sauvignons.
Standouts were Black Oyster Catcher; First Sighting and Zoetendal, all from 2005. The Berrio Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004, from Flagstone, was equally well-matched with the grilled meats, as was the Zoetendal Shiraz, also 2004.
At this stage, Elim?s production is still tiny and it is unlikely that we will see these wines here in the immediate future.
The excitement is by no means confined to new stars from cool climates. Equally impressive are the great strides being made with Rhone varieties in the more widespread Mediterranean conditions of the Cape. Look for South African Shiraz/Syrah to challenge the predominance of Australia with this grape. The wines show the distinct expression of South African conditions, but generally bear a stronger resemblance to the Rhone style than to the lushly fruity style more common in Australia.
Some of the most impressive Rhone styles are coming from Swartland, once known only for producing nondescript bulk wines. Led by a small band of passionate winemakers, this semi-arid region is gaining recognition for dynamic Rhone-inspired blends. Not only Syrah, but Mourvedre, Grenache, Carignan and Cinsault all show exciting promise here.
These are just a few high points. There were many other pleasant surprises as well; more on these in upcoming columns. There will be some interesting examples of new-style South African wines at the Port of Wines Festival in September, some of which I had a chance to taste at the Cape Wines show.
Sean Wood is a wine judge, writes for national and international wine magazines and travels frequently to wine regions throughout the world. He teaches, provides wine related consulting services and conducts numerous wine events.
© 2005 The Halifax Herald Limited
