 |
|
|
|
14 Nov 2005
Making Pinotage and Learning Humility
Bruce Jack
Pinotage is a South African variety of grape. In 1925 Professor Perold of the University of Stellenbosch “invented” Pinotage by crossing Pinot Noir and a relatively obscure Rhone variety, Cinsault. While there is Pinotage grown elsewhere in the world the vast majority of vines are planted in South Africa.
Like its “mother” Pinot Noir it is a very challenging variety to grow and make. Like Pinot Noir, there is a lot of Pinotage on the market that is quite undrinkable. And like Pinot Noir, that is one reason I love making it.
You do not have to climb Kilimanjaro. It is certainly not a challenge to take lightly. However, if you are born in Africa, it is something that seems to appeal on a deep and meaningful level. It's about standing on the highest point of our continent. It's about a very African challenge and spiritual rite of passage.
You do not have to make Pinotage either. In at least two cases I know of Pinotage that has gone “wrong” in the cellar has destroyed burgeoning wine businesses, forcing them to sell out of near bankruptcy. Pinotage is also a very African challenge.
Because of its difficult character and unique organic chemistry it terrifies winemakers. And like a thoroughbred racehorse it can smell fear at 20 paces, making the challenge more daunting for the apprehensive.
Everyone who has attempted a Kilimanjaro ascent has been spiritually affected by the experience. The psychological rite of humility changes you for the better, forever.
I have been humbled by every attempt at growing and crafting a great Pinotage. Every now and again I seem to rise to the challenge. A good result is powerfully energising, but never relaxing because you know next vintage could spell disaster for your business and your reputation.
Pinotage entices you with flashes of breathtaking, unique brilliance. It is ruthless when you stuff up, but it can also carry you to the top of the world. For a winemaker, Pinotage is an exciting, humbling African challenge. It keeps your ego in check.
This week's column is dedicated to the memory of one of South Africa's most brilliant paediatrician's, Dr Mike Martin, who recently passed away on the upper slopes of Kilimanjaro.
|
|
