THE CAPSULE| AUGUST 2001
Dear Flagstone Friend -
As a follower of the on-going Flagstone Adventure you will know of our exhilarating wine competition successes last year. Seeing our hard graft and uncompromising attitude recognised in shiny gold medals and trophies is an enjoyable bonus. The award dinners are good fun too, although we seem to be getting a reputation for always being the last to leave the ‘jol’. A list of our awards is available on our website flagstonewines.com.
The most satisfying thing since the release of our first wine on the 1st of September 1999 (the BK5 Pinot Noir 1999) has been proving that the years of research and the theory were right – selectively buying in well-known grapes from a wide variety of meso-climates and geographical situations is a strategic strength. It gives us an enormous head start on making great quality, complex wine.
Putting this strategic strength in place was only half the battle. Being able to cool our grapes right down allows us to make wine in an ancient, soft-touch, hands-on way. Not only is this more natural, but the resulting wine is softer, rounder, more flavourful and longer-lived. We use the most advanced cooling facilities in Africa for this at the V&A Waterfront.
With the privilege of cherry picking the best grapes and world-class cooling facilities only one thing stood in our way: persuading our selected growers to hand over management of their vineyards. This has taken a lot of patience to achieve, but we are now responsible for the management of most of the blocks we direct into the bottle.
Our Range is Complete
After three vintages, and hundreds of trial ferments and blends, we have settled on our
Foundation Range. There are 5 white wines, 6 red wines and a rosé.
THE WHITES
NOON GUN Blended dry white
FREERUN Sauvignon Blanc
HEYWOOD HOUSE Barrel Fermented Sauvignon Blanc
RESOLUTE 166 Chardonnay
TWO ROADS Chardonnay
THE ROSÉ
SEMAPHORE Mostly Pinot Gris
THE REDS
LONGITUDE Blended red
BK5 Pinot Noir
DRAGON TREE Cabernet Sauvignon & Pinotage
WRITER’S BLOCK Pinotage
THE MUSIC ROOM Cabernet Sauvignon
THE POETRY COLLECTION Pinot Noir
As well as our Foundation Range we have:-
THE FLAGSTONE STRATA SERIES
This is our range of experimental, once-off and seriously adventurous wines collected under the name Flagstone Strata. By their very nature these wines are crafted in miniscule amounts – often, only a few barrels will ever exist. Each wine is characterised by its unique history and character. All are finely crafted as outstanding examples of their specific geographical situation and climatic influences. When they make it to the cellar, they are pushed to the limits of their winemaking possibilities. We encourage natural fermentation and steer clear of adding acid or fining agents. Some have not made it this far as a result. This year the Flagstone Strata wines will be: a Barrel Fermented Chenin Blanc; a Pinot Noir & Merlot Blend (George’s Blend); a Shiraz; and a Viognier and a Pinot Meunier.
For a comprehensive list of where our wines are available globally, please e-mail us on: terraceroad@icon.co.za or call +27 21 425 3766
Does Pinot Noir need a cold, wet climate?
“The best Pinot Noir comes from cold, wet Burgundy. Therefore, Pinot Noir needs a cold, wet climate.” Heard that one? This is like saying: “The best Pinotage is grown on Kaapzicht Wine Estate in Bottelary. Therefore, Pinotage must be grown in Bottelary’s climate.” Is Danie Steytler (Kaapzicht's winemaker) irrelevant and his climate everything? Are we sure great Pinotage can’t be grown in a New Zealand climate?
Our research into climate and Pinot Noir (presented at the South African Pinot Noir Conference) revealed that the only reason a cold climate might contribute to great Pinot Noir, is in forcing an early switch from vegetative to reproductive growth – focusing the vine on producing juicy fruit.
Otherwise Pinot Noir does not need a cold, wet growing season to produce great wine. In fact we discovered that all the best Red Burgundy vintages are characterised by unusually hot, dry growing conditions and very rapid ripening of the fruit.
Why, therefore, are red Burgundies still so good?
The real reasons appear to be: - low vigour soil with excellent drainage and moisture retention, immaculate viticulture, site-specific clonal matching, generations of insight, soil-specific picking, tiny yields, fanatical, small-batch ferments, exciting clones and, most importantly, virus free plant material.
It seems great Pinot Noirs are made in Burgundy, despite the difficult climate, not because of it.
We think it is time we dealt with the real issues affecting the quality of South African Pinot Noir and stop blaming our high-potential, equable climate.
The 2001 Harvest
I have heard the choices we make in the vineyard and winery described as “risky” and “extreme”. It is true we drop 80% of the crop in some of our vineyards, until the ground under the vines is black with fruit. It is true we bucket by hand the 250 tonnes of red grapes around the winery every crush because we don’t like pumps – until every hand, black or white, is stained deep purple. This could be deemed a little excessive and extreme, but never risky.
Encouraging natural, wild ferments and frowning on the use of sulphur is seen by food processors as unnecessarily risky in our warm climate, but that is why we cool our grapes and that is why we are based in the Waterfront. Like any winemaking team aiming for the very top, we will do anything, and everything, to ensure our grapes are treated correctly: with as much care, love and patience as you would extend to your child. We have a saying that sums up our attitude to harvest activities: “Think like a grape”.
The 2001 harvest was difficult because of the two dry, warm winters that preceded it. Early varieties like Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc benefited from the cool January, but with the later heat wave, water stress kicked in and varieties like Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon were destroyed without irrigation. We are going to see some stunning Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, while overall quality should be up on the 2000 harvest.
We use ancient, natural techniques that make life more difficult, but which ensure soft handling of the grapes. Like most quality-obsessed New World wineries, we work 24 hours a day, seven days a week, during the three-and-a-half months of “crush”. To survive this period of the year with our minds and bodies more or less intact we rely on the team around us. We also reckon we have one of the most hygienic wineries in the world – and that takes extra time and a lot of extra effort.
Here it is the team, not a single winemaker which makes the difference between a good wine and a great wine.
When sleep-deprivation sinks in, it feels as if the bungee cord might be a bit long for the canyon floor rushing up to you. But when it is in the bottle it is always worth it.
Our Flagstone Philosophy is simple:
1.Aim for the Top
2.Question with Respect
3.Make Wine with Honour
4.Trust Your Taste
Thank you for supporting Flagstone.
Yours sincerely,
Bruce Jack – Head Winemaker
